READY TO CRUISE?
Ok, you have chosen (after lots of research and consideration) to venture into the wonderful world of cruising. You mean you want to give up crowded freeways, fast paced, young gals/guys on your butt talking on their cell phone, no parking spaces at Costco, everyone in a hurry, Wait a minute, do you think you might enjoy being relaxed, in an atmosphere that you won't find anywhere but on a private cruising vessel. I hope you like to eat fish (you don't have to, but fishing and cruising go hand in hand and fishing in Mexico is among the best in the world. Getting supplies for your vessel is also no problem. Yes they have Costco, Home Depot, in the big towns, Hermisillo, just outside Cabo San Lucas and lots of local markets.
SAFTY IN MEXICO
I personally have been going to Mexico since my folks went down for a vacation when I was 10. I have been going there all my life and have NEVER, not once, had a problem. I have driven the baja numerous times. I have driven from Nogalas to Hermisillo, San Carlos, the Ferry Boat near Guaymas. Put my car BMW 750il on the ferry to La Paz. Then drove on to Cabo San Lucas. Then drove the baja back to San Diego and eventually Santa Barbara where I lived, a great trip. I always feel safer in Mexico then many places here in the U.S. You just need to be like traveling to any other place or country, be wise.
I have heard of so little problems with boating, cruising, etc. in Mexico, that there is nothing to talk about. Just lock up your boat if you are anchoring in a cove and put things inside and out of sight if you are going ashore. You won't have anything to worry about at the marinas, great security at most.
There are two ways to go south, choice #1. This does not mean this is the best choice or worst, it is just one of the choices. To me the most spectacular and most interesting, a trip to remember, and could be the best trip of your whole cruising experiences. I would say (depending on the time of year you go down) to take your time, you can spend a month or more traveling the Pacific side of the Baja.
#1) Cruising Baja Coast.
POINT LOMA, SAN DIEGO, CA
A great port with friendly people and all the services that a cruiser would need. You are allowed to spend a couple of days at the police dock for $10 a night. Another option is the guest mooring from the Port district, call 619- 696-7341, for information when you arrive. Most of the marina's have cruiser specials if you need a slip. BLUE WATER INSURANCE is located within walking distance of the police dock.
ISLE LOS CORONADOS, MEXICO
Just a dozen miles off Point Loma, the east side of the south island has a couple of fair anchorages. A great fishing area.
ENSENADA
A full service all weather harbor. Many good restaurants within walking distance of the harbor. Don't trust the moorings; either anchor or tie up at one of the three docks that are available. I like "Bandito's" for price and security. Also check out the Baja Naval Yard and Marina phone 011 526 674 0020
ISLA TODOS SANTOS
There is a good anchorage here but many insects and smells of fish. There are better places not far away.
PUNTA BANDA
The south side of this point is one of my favorites with two good anchorages: Bahia Papalote where you can row ashore and visit one of the small restaurants OR Bahia Puerto Escondido, very isolated, anchor between the shore and the rock to the southeast. Both anchorages are good, many rock patches and kelp beds and good diving and fishing. A bit open to South West winds.
PUNTA SANTO THOMAS
The southern lee of the point is the best anchorage in all but southeast winds. Approach from the south and anchor when you have aligned the rocks on the point and Rocas Soledad. Great clamming and fishing but it can be rough rowing in! Look for the stone steps leading up to the village. Limited supplies available.
ISLE SAN MARTIN
If the wind is strong, this anchorage can be dangerous!
CABO SAN QUINTIN
The anchorage here is only fair, just outside the bar, abreast of Punta Entrada. Do not enter the bay with out local knowledge, due to shifting sand bars. You can dingy ashore inside the bay where you will find some great clamming. (The best way to clam is to walk in ankle deep water until you feel the clams with your toes, then reach down and pick them up.
PUNTA BAJA
This anchorage may be uncomfortable due to the swell. Anchor with a bridle or fore and aft anchors so as to avoid lying in the trough. There is a significant amount of kelp between here and Punta San Antonio.
ISLA SAN JERONIMO
DANGER-Sacramento reef lies close to the south. This is NOT a comfortable place to anchor! So adjust your timing to not need to stop here.
PUNTA SAN ANTONIO
DANGER-Sacramento Reef is just 3 miles west of the Point. The reef is in the red sector of the Isla Jeronimo Light. This reef is awesome! The swell rolls in from all directions and cast green water skywards. the wind whips the spray creating a misty , unworldly haze over the entire area. However, if you arrive at one of those few times when nothing is moving- water, wind or tide- the fishing and diving is spectacular. But approach from leeward!
PUNTA SAN CARLOS
The anchorage is around the point i Bahia San Carlos or towards the western most arroyo well out. I suggest "well out" as the gusty winds may reflect off the shore. many commercial and pleasure boats have used this safe and fairly comfortable anchorage.
PUNTA SANTA ROSALIA
Around the point is Bahia Santa Rosalia where a good anchorage free of swells can be found. The bay shoals along its edges so anchor well out in the good sand bottom.
ISLA CEDROS
There are a couple of good anchorages on the east and south sides. use caution when traveling between here and Point Eugenia as Isla Natividad lies between. Also watch for the Benito Islands that lie just to the west. The best anchorage is in the open roadstead near the pier at Cedros Village. A few supplies can be had here with the Port Captain's permission. Expensive!
PUNTA EUGENIA - There is no shelter here!
TURTLE BAY
Very good all weather anchorage. The best area is just off the cannery pier in sand. The entrance is about 3/4 of a mile wide. Fuel is available during business hours. When entering or departing stay at least 2 miles off shore to avoid the lobster traps. Lobster lovers elite here, you can buy from the fishermen very cheap. Don't forget extra for lobster omelets, sandwiches, etc.
PUNTA ASUNCION - ISLA ASUNCION - CAUTION
I would suggest going around and well clear of Isla Asuncion. That should bring you to a good anchorage east of the point and out from the village. Village has some supplies but you must land through the surf in your dingy. The navy here may pay you a visit. Cookies and coffee are the usual greetings.
PUNTA ABREOJOS
A good anchorage can be found behind the Point at the center of the first bight. However, much CAUTION is advised due to the reefs and rocks surrounding the area. This is NOT a good place to arrive at night as the lights are not reliable. the best anchorage is in the cove just east of the village.
BAHIA SAN JUANICO
This is a fair anchorage and the only place to break up the 135 mile run between Punta Abreojos and Bahia San Lazardo. Don't confuse this one with Punta San Juanico just to the south and watch for the shoals surrounding the point. The best anchorage is off the cannery.
CABO SAN LAZARDO
Quite a sight when approaching as it looks just like an island, but it's not! You can NOT leave it to starboard as many skippers have tried! (Evidence of this is scattered all up and down the shore) Watch for the inshore setting current or you may end up sharing the beach with the lonely rusting hulks who were without this guide! This cape also marks the line between the tropical and the "cold" North. Just south lies Punta Hughes and Bahia Santa Maria. Best to continue to Bahia Santa Maria.
PUNTA HUGHES
Good anchorage around the Punta inside Bahia Santa Maria. This area has a rugged beauty and is one of my favorite spots. Best anchorage is 1/2 mile from shore across from the lagoon.
BAHIA MAGDALENA
This is an entrance to a large all weather anchorage with many good spots. Watch the depth sounder and the tidal current when you enter, leave and explore. Fuel and some supplies with the Port Captains permission. When you leave here, get ready for some really great fishing! This is the last good anchorage until you reach Cabo San Lucas. (However, in settled weather or Southerly winds, the North side of Punta Lobos may be a welcomed spot.
CABO SAN LUCAS - EXPENSIVE
Now we are at the tip of the Baja. We can visit Cabo, get fuel, provisions, visit Costco, (oh no, not Costco, yep).
But a fun stop over. Watch for the two high rocks between here and Magdalena and enter well clear of them. At nights the lights can be of help. This harbor can be a real trap in bad southeast weather. Raise Cabo Isle Marina on Channel 88 for a berth. This will also handle all of your port clearances for a small fee. Now we are at the tip of the Baja. We can visit Cabo, get fuel, provisions, visit Costco, (oh no, not Costco, yep). Next we will round the tip of Baja and up to La Paz. Next we will round the tip of Baja and up to La Paz.
LA PAZ
There are various anchorages and / or marinas at or near the city. Marisla Moorings is a good place to stay one my favorite places. They have 25 moorings, showers, dingy dock, etc. (011 52 682 52112) Also Marina de La Paz (011 52 682 52112) and Marina Palmira (011 52 682 53959)
LORETO
My favorite place, a little more expensive but it an awesome place to stay for a week or a lifetime.
PUERTO VALLARTA
Another harbor that has come of age. You can find almost anything here, including cold beer and a safe berth. This is a good hurricane hole. The light coming into the harbor is hard to see during the day. the harbor master and the guest docks are in the palapa on your port as you enter the harbor.
ACAPULCO
A great harbor with all the facilities you will ever need! I would recommend the Yacht Club. There you have showers and access to the entire city.
#1) I would suggest that you go as far south as quickly as possible. My preference is non-stop from San Diego to Acapulco (Oct to May). From Point Loma (San Diego) go due south until 100 miles offshore, then turn southeast for Acapulco. This way you are outside of the shipping lanes and not trying to dodge the unlit native fishing boats found closer to shore. The cruising is great, much like being in the trades but with cooler temperatures. So save the west coast of Baja for the summer trip back home!
Once in Acapulco you'll find year round warm weather and a fun spot to recuperate from your 10 to 14 day passage. After relaxing here for awhile, it's time to work your way up north. You can almost day sail up the coast stopping at Punta De Papanoa, Zihuatanejo, Ixtapa and many other ports until you reach Manzanillo. Then you can decide if want to cross over to the Baja or continue on to Puerto Vallarta, Maztalan, and many towns in-between. Once again, you can still decide to cross over to La Paz or carry on to San Carlos which has a wonderful 1st class marina. A well protected marina and many shops, restaurants with many people stopping to live for awhile. You can fly out from any of the previous cities as well.
Between Manzanillo to Puerto Vallarta are many sun kissed exotic spots only a day's sail away: places like Natividad, Tentacatita, Chamela, Carreyes, Ipala and Yelapa. These remote pristine anchorages are what cruising is all about.
On the way to Mazatlan from PV is historic San Blas. North of Mazatlan there are few decent anchorages for over 350 miles.
Many people cruise the Sea of Cortez for a couple years. you can also cruise further south to other country's during certain times of the year. There is so many places to see and visit if one wants. Many people cruise the Sea of Cortez for many months and after finding a marina that they really like, stay there or leave their vessel at a slip and return home for a few months, then go back for a few months. There are many options.
NAVIGATION
Baja is rugged and isolated, with few navigation aids. It's GPS, Celestial or nothing! Good coastal navigation and dead reckoning procedures are a must. Night travel should be avoided unless well out to sea, as lights and aids are not dependable. If you are going all the way to Acapulco, have the following DMA charts on board: 502, 503, 21140, 21160, 21180, 21180, 21200, 21120, 21017, 21020, 21008, 21014.
ANCHORING
Most anchorages have good sand bottoms and are in depths of 3 to 6 fathoms, only a few are deeper than 12 fathoms. I suggest 3 sets of anchors and gear, as many times you will need a fore and aft and a storm anchor.
ENGINES AND FUEL
Always carry the spare parts you think you will need- filters, impellers and lubricants. Eliminate problems-buy a Baja Filter (West Marine, etc) with a water separator and never fill your fuel tanks without it.
BATTERIES
Good batteries are hard to come by in Mexico. Also make sure you have a digital volt meter and a hydrometer.
DINGHIES
Any good dinghy will do. I like the hard dinghy because it's easier to row and control. Better yet, a sailing dinghy so you don't have to row at all! Or have a small outboard motor. Also the hard dinghy does not have to be patched every time you run up on a rocky shore.
FOOD AND WATER
To trade or barter with the fishermen, bring canned food, coffee, drill bits, vice grips, flashlights, batteries and
t-shirts. Candy for the kids, baseball caps, etc. They love it and will treat you like a king. I like taking decent donated clothes to give away.
EXTRAS
Bring the following! Sun block, Avon's Skin So Soft, BBQ fuel, Lycra dive suit; swim suit, fins, snorkel and mask; kitchen timer; thermos; Joy dishwashing soap; extra oars; folding shopping cart; folding jugs; lots of shock cord; dingy anchor. Long pants and dresses for visits to Port Captains offices.
Do NOT take firearms or ammunition.
The Mexican flag should be flown from your starboard spreader and it should be the same size as your national flag. the Q- quarantine- flag is not normally used in Mexico.
FISHING
I have fished from both sail and power boats so my gear is adapted to both. I found the lip latch type of rig the most effective. The rig consist of two single hooks connected several inches apart by wire with each hook at an angle to the other with one hook near the head and the other trailing in the tail. When choosing a hook the general rule is that the distance of the "bite of the hook" should just fit over the head of the lure.
As for leaders I prefer the mono to wire because it trails better and is less likely to kink. Game fish can really chew up a leader so I lean to the heavy stuff.
TROLLING- SLOW SPEED
When I go cruising I always carry several primary color jigs. I like catching the smaller game fish to the big marlin because of my limited refrigeration. For tuna, Wahoo and dorado, I take the smaller feathers like Mean Joe Green, purple/black, red/white, zucchini color and red/yellow/ green. When I do get the urge to catch a big one (marlin), I use green/black, mackerel pattern, dorado pattern and a bright or neon pink/white/red combo, in addition to Doorknob lures. As a rule I run the darker colors in the early morning and late afternoon/early evening or in overcast conditions. When it's brighter out, I use the brighter colors. I use the same colors only with lighter (smaller) lures for my spinning gear when in the dingy or at anchor when we need dinner.